Under the creative direction of Hoor Al-Qasimi, twin to the late founder Khalid Al-Qasimi, the eponymously-named label from London continues the latter’s legacy by honoring the codes he proudly developed. Al-Qasimi states “Legacy is not just about what you leave behind. It’s also what you do going forward.” Each is a cornerstone of QASIMI’s identity, enhancing the under- tones of exploration and those who choose a nomadic lifestyle.
For SS23, the Tuareg people, as well as the Saharawi and the Sahel regions, act as the inspi- ration for the deep, unavoidable indigo hues that permeate this season’s collection. This band of outsiders, ones who do not follow the status quo, hark back to QASIMI AW21 and AW22, and today appear in their most transformative approach thus far.
A lookbook bolstered by the deep blue hue backdrops visions of tailoring – womenswear fol- lows a traditional drape, folding delicately across the body as the Tuareg’s attire does. Woven market bags contrast this in red, matching shoes in the same theme echo the divergence, while technical fabrics enhance QASIMI’s traditions of not following the mainstream code.
U.S. army combat uniforms, Swiss army work jackets, Swedish army popovers, thermal zip necks and parachutes underpin the military tropes. The volumes, vents and seams breathe a sense of lightness into an altogether utilitarian story, creating a modern uniform for today. Rope macramé, inspired by pearl diving and seafaring communities in the Gulf, forms a top, while Middle-Eastern architecture in all its grandeur contributes to the sharp lines that cut throughout SS23.
Softening this is the unexpected application of an image of a dove, taken by the photographer Tariq Al-Hajri, continuing QASIMI’s love for spotlighting artists. Embellishments of pearls – beaded and strung – reflect on Middle-Eastern history once more, draping over tailored jackets and adding an oceanic texture to shirts that are otherwise structured in the collar and sleeve. As per the QASIMI philosophy, SS23 is a proud and resilient collection that seeks to unite all, finding our inner nomad in this increasingly turbulent atmosphere. Filled with optimism and nostalgia, SS23 spans genres and continents, as Khalid Al-Qasimi triumphed in his work since the founding of QASIMI in 2008.
