Rami Al Ali stirs up a magical mood of nostalgia for his spring/summer 2021 couture collection, with the Syrian designer turning to memories of evenings in his homeland, and some unavoidable flights of fancy, for his 18-look feat.
“I’m not quite sure if it’s a fantasy orchestrated by my imagination, or an echo of an old childhood memory, but it always comes back to me so strong, so real, so vivid and very nostalgic,” the Dubai-based designer said. “A Damascene evening, to me, consists of a cool breeze wafting with a sweet jasmine aroma. Calming whispers behind the rosewood mashrabias, muddled with the gurgle of the courtyard fountain and the shadows created by the full moon, like a serene sanctuary –so soulful and peaceful.”
In the collection that speaks of his Syrian heritage, Al Ali, who studied Visual Arts in Damascus, presents silhouettes that vary from big ball gowns to polished, floor-gazing dresses and daring jumpsuits created with elaborate handwork. Meanwhile, other pieces play up exaggerated architectural-like wavy cuts over scale ruffles, standout hoods, some organza, and conseptualised bows.
The designer known for his love of refined aesthetics opts for typical couture fabrics like satin and silk. And they have been amplified into the extravagant volumes and dimensions that characterise his recent couture collections.
The lineup by Al Ali, who has created elegant and feminine couture designs since he launched his eponymous label in 2000, features a distinguished palette of warm beige, champagne and blush colours. However, he has also mixed it up a bit by dropping in moody shades of black. The creative, who has announced he will not present a new autumn/winter show, tactfully manipulates silhouettes by expertly casting shadows against the body through strong opaque fabrics, cut to enrich architectural lines. Glistening sequins, crystal beads and liquid satin fabrics all help bring the collection to life, reflecting light with every movement.