The runways in New York, London and Milan are undoubtedly thrilling, but we will forever reserve a special place in our hearts for the last leg of Fashion Month. As well as always breaking boundaries, Paris Fashion Week features some of the most anticipated shows. Here, we focus on two of the most magical, news-filled events.
SAINT LAURENT
For Saint Laurent’s eclectic spring/summer 2019 collection, Anthony Vaccarello ensured all the different personalities made a splash by walking on water at the label’s usual venue, the Place du Trocadéro. With the path of white palms, the Eiffel Tower twinkling and dusk falling over the city as a backdrop, the unique and memorable runway moments merged the laid-back feel of cities like Miami or LA with lots of glam.
Each look was an expression of a dynamic individuality, created by mixing elements of different decades and distinguished by clashes of colour. Just like Paloma Picasso’s vintage re-styling inspired Yves Saint Laurent in the early 70s, timeless icons’ codes were blended and reborn for today.
“It’s a silhouette created by a variety of pieces, inspired by different eras and timeless icons. Eclecticism is freedom to build yourself, express your own personality and respect your complexity,” Vaccarello said.
While boyish silhouettes held a feminine confidence, we saw 60s shift dresses with diamanté trim married with suiting in jersey from the same decade. Plus, very tight tuxedo suiting, whether worn with velvet blazers, waistcoats, ruffled shirts or pussy-bows, harked back to the 70s. Rock-inspired jackets and extravagant hues like gold and silver were included, adding a party-like feel to the sleek pieces.
A more playful side of the collection included outfits covered in stars and hearts with embellishment and patchwork, reminding us of the motifs Saint Laurent featured in his Love postcards. And Vaccarello touched on the late designer’s love affair with Marrakech by presenting flowing kaftans and cutout swimwear. The Italian-Belgian designer’s trademark skimpy hemlines also played a role, with daring mini-dresses with see-through tops or glittery romper suits.
CHRISTIAN DIOR
The Christian Dior show, which kicked off Paris Fashion Week, was an eye-popping, exciting homage to heroines of modern dance like Martha Graham, Pina Bausch and Isadora Duncan. And as powerful beams of light illuminated a dramatically dark space in the Hippodrome de Longchamp, a conceptual dance piece, choreographed by Sharon Eyal, ensured the 2,000 show-goers kept their eyes glued to the runway. Eyal performed with other ballerinas from her company, moving to hip-hop beats under a shower of rose petals.
“Dance speaks about the body, it speaks about freedom. And fashion speaks about the same things," Maria Grazia Chiuri, who cast aside Dior’s signature corsetry that minimises the waist, said backstage. While showcasing her sixth ready-to-wear collection for Dior, she opened the show with a head-turning black floor-length gown. Chiuri, who incorporated a lot of navy, beige, black and greens, also introduced jersey for the time with neo-Grecian dresses.
She included draped, pleated goddess looks, blush pink tulle dresses and flowing tiered maxis too. Beautiful fluid gowns in sheer fabric with floral embellishment also made an impression. The devil is in the detail and tie-dye, feathered butterflies and beaded embroidery all helped make the collection even more special.
Sportier silhouettes included transparent camisoles worn over bralettes and styled with mesh leggings, embroidered fatigues, tie-dye denim, printed trainers and ballet shoes. The collection also included some precision-cut belted jackets, utilitarian cross-body bags, and, of course, the iconic “Saddle” bag, which has made a return.
Dior fans looking for pieces they can wear for years and years can turn to the floral mackintosh coats with the Dior logo, the go-with-everything wedges and the Shiburi scarf prints.
